ASIAN PARADISE,

The menu here is mainly Thai and Cambodian, with an occasional Vietnamese and even Szechwan touch. On a recent visit, four of us sampled their Nam Chow, that ubiquitous Vietnamese bean sprout and shrimp roll wrapped in soft rice paper. With plenty of Asian basil, they're as good as any we've had. Also on the menu were six selections under the heading "Soup as a Meal." The Samia Machou with shrimp ($6.75) is a tangy sweet-and-sour chicken broth with pineapple chunks and tomato wedges. New Yorkers will enjoy the egg soda ($1), a traditional concoction over ice that doesn't skimp on sugar.